Rebuild a Ford Motorcraft 6G Alternator yourself. Ford Lincoln F150 F250 F350 110-135amp 2000-2009

This video will go over how to break down and put back together a Ford 6G alternator and how to do a basic rebuild. WARNING! DOT NOT EVER PULL OFF YOUR BATTERY CABLES WITH THE VEHICLE RUNNING! It is a myth that some idiot started that you can test your alternator this way to see if your vehicle will die but it can cause catastrophic damage to your car. If you are lucky all your relays will disengage and your car will die but if the alternator is charging it can cause it to put out unregulated voltage damaging any electrical system in its path. Blown fuses are best case scenario but it can also cause damage to your ECM, blow out headlights and interior lights, damage sensors, fuel pump, burn wiring and damage your battery. Do not do this. Have your alternator tested normally. Standard components you want to replace are your bearings, regulator/brush holder assembly, and your bearing tolerance ring. Pulley should be torqued to atleast 70ft lbs with an impact gun. You will need a 5/16, 15/16 socket, T20 torque head, a hammer, and a impact gun at minimum for disassembly. Once back on the vehicle the alternator should always charge between 14.0V to 14.8V. Small emporary fluctuations are normal but anything 15V or over is overcharging and anything under 13.8V is undercharging. If this happens there is an underlying issue with the vehicle or alternator. Bad regulator, bad diode, bad or low battery, dirty cables, or something on the vehicle is pulling excessive amperage. If you have a diesel vehicle it is normal for your voltage to be around 12.5V to 13.5V on cold start as the glow plugs pull alot of amperage from the alternator. It should stabilize at 14.2V after the motor has warmed up. Always replace, load test and or fully charge your battery before reinstalling your alternator. Alternator components part numbers: BEARINGS: DE Housing 6303-2RS SRE Housing B10-50D, B10-51D REGULATORS: Industry# R77 brushes Gray w/Gray cover - cannot replace gray/green Ford - F8WU10C359AB Regitar USA - GR900, GR900, MFVR01230, VR-F900, VR-F900A, 230-14038 Gray w/Green cover - replaces gray/gray Ford - 3C3U10C359AA, VP3C3U10C359, VP3C3U10C359AA, VP3C3U10C395 Regitar USA - GR901, GR901M, VR-F901, 230-14047, GR900HD, 230-14047 Heavy Duty Replacement - T900, 230-14045 White w/Grey cover - Replaces both White/Blue and White/Black cover but Blue and Black cannot interchange. Ford - 4L3U10C359AA, 7L4E10C359AA, VP4F1U10C359A, VP4L3U, VP4L3U10C359AA, VPF1U10C359AA, XW4U10C359A, XW4U10C359AB Regitar USA - GR910, GR910M, MFVR01240, VR-F910, 230-14057 Taditel - T902 White w/Orange cover Ford - XS7U10C359BA Regitar USA - GR930, MFVR01250, 230-14041 Latest circuitry version - must use on 2005-2008 models Ford- VP4L1U10C359AA Regitar USA - GR931, GR931M, 230-14048, 230-14054 White w/White cover Ford - XS7U10C359AC Regitar USA - GR920, MFVR03860, 230-14048, 230-14054 RECTIFIERS: Use 60/40 preflux solder or stronger Standard Frame 8 diodes- RF103HV, RF10HV, RF103A, RF10A, 172-14028, 172-14035, 172-14038 Alternate rectifier clocking with frame bolt to the right of battery post F8RU10A366CAIP, 172-14044 Standard Frame 6 diode version- Single leads MFRX04382, RF13, RF133, 172-14032, 172-14033, 172-14058 Alternate clocking with frame bolts to the right of battery post MFRX04402, RF15, RF153, 172-14034 Large Frame Rectifiers 172-14029, 172-14031, 172-14046, 172-14061, RF123, RF123HV Slip Ring - Rotor Repair 313-14015, 313-14016

Added 13 May 2026